Tight or REALLY Tight

How can you tell if you are just cheap…oops, I mean tight… or if you are REALLY tight? Here are a few examples to help gauge your level of parsimony.

If you grow and dig your own potatoes and add the potato vines to your compost pile and smash any grub worms that you come upon while digging with the back of your shovel then you are being frugal. But if you save the marble-sized new potatoes to be seed for your late straw potatoes and put the grubs in a recycled butter container to use for fish bait and bury the fish heads and bones deep in your garden, then you are really tight.

If you organically grow your own tomato plants and prune the vines to encourage more fruit production and throw the prunings on your compost pile then you are economical. If instead you replant and water the pruned cuttings to try to get a second harvest of free tomatoes just before frost hits, then you are really a tightwad.

If you find a seed company which offers $25 worth of free seeds or plants (Gurney’s Seed and Nursery Co.) and you get seeds for your garden for just the price of handling and shipping then you are pretty parsimonious. If you get several of your siblings to also get the seed catalog and offer for your benefit and buy asparagus spears and blackberries and other perennial plants which may produce food in your garden for the next twenty years then you are truly tight.

If you have your wife give you a buzz hair cut at home to save giving the barber $15 and paying for the gas to get to his shop, well that is commendably thrifty. But if you scoop up the cut hair to put around those afore-mentioned free asparagus plants to act as a high nitrogen, long lasting mulch and also as a human-scent deterrent to keep any deer from bothering your garden patch well that is getting darn near being really tight.

If you ask your significant other to make melon balls from excess melons that would otherwise go to waste so that you can enjoy melon frozen desserts in mid-winter, that’s laudable. However when she’s completed the task if you hint that she should also pickle the rind and parch and salt the watermelon seed then (trust me…) you are truly pushing the envelope.

I could go on with other examples but I think you get the idea already. I don’t want you to get the idea that I’m one of those FANATICS! I wonder if she could boil the watermelon juice down to make pancake syrup…..

Bees and the Beans

Plants talk to me. Seriously. I planted and heavily mulched four thornless blackberry plants and four raspberry plants in fertile soil in the back yard. Despite regular watering, seven of the eight were dead within a couple years. Meanwhile volunteer raspberries (and lots of them) kept appearing under my apple and apricot trees next o the garden. One day one of the volunteers looked me in the eye and said, “Hey moron, we like the semi –shade; that is how bramble grows naturally in the wild.” So I dug up some of the volunteers, stretched several rows of taut straw baling string between the fence posts at the south end of my garden and replanted the bramble just outside the garden fence under the shade of overhanging apple tree limbs. I intertwined the bramble volunteers in the straw baling string and laid a three foot wide strip of old carpet just behind them as a permanent mulch weed control which also served as clean picking path just behind the row of plants. “It’s about time!” the plants said and took off like gangbusters to form a permanent hedge demarcating one end of the garden. They were receiving both the shade of the apple and the fertility of the garden.

Then the butternut squash made eye contact and said, “Us too…We want the semi-shade too.” I had bought a super hybrid butternut squash and planted it in the field; every plant withered and died without bearing any fruit. There was a volunteer which came up with some cucumbers I planted near the apple tree. Since I didn’t want it choking out my cukes I treated it as a weed and ripped part of it out. It came back. It grew up the carpet behind my raspberries and then climbed over the fence and into my garden. Okay, I get the message; next year you go between the sweet corn rows where you can get both dappled shade and garden fertility and watering.

I didn’t know if cabbage would grow in my type of soil or not so I planted some this spring as an experiment. The plants seemed to love the soil and grew very quickly and I lost every plant. One of the hole-ridden dying plants spoke to me, “Cabbage is a fall crop; do not plant us until you have seen the last white cabbage butterfly.” So I noted that the cabbage butterflies were all gone by the beginning of August and will plant accordingly next year. One of the best organic methods to control pests is to watch their life cycle and try to grow plants out of step with the insects’ natural life span. For a lot of plants that meant planting early in my sandy soil which drains and warms up early but for cabbage it means planting later. Either I use a floating row cover or spray BT or else I plant the main crop behind some earlier crop for fall harvest.

Well, that brings me back to the pole beans. They are trying to tell me something but I can’t quite make out what they are saying. I put in some ten-foot poles. The beans grew to the top of the poles with lush vines and then turned around and headed back down, hanging almost to the ground. The vines were covered with blossoms and insect damage and plant disease seemed to be minimal. But not a single bean has developed…not one. To paraphrase the Rolling Stones…I can’t get no…pollination. They say that things go in cycles. Last year we had honey bees galore…so many that I could not help but commit apiscide as I trench composted over-ripe water melons into the garden from the melon patch last fall. (When I was a kid we didn’t have fancy terms like “trench composting” or “French Bio-intensive Gardening”; Mom just told us to “bury the garbage.”) Anyway a lot of bees got buried last year because they could not resist watermelon rind; this year I bet I haven’t seen two honey bees all summer. This year I purposely laid out some exposed rinds on the compost pile next to the beans to try to draw in a few scout bees but nothing resulted. This whole episode has given me a greater appreciation for garden produce which is not dependent on insect pollination like potatoes, sweet potatoes, lettuce and sweet corn (wind pollinated). I continue to tell myself that honeybees are a European import and there must have been native pollinators before the colonists brought their bees over.

I strongly considered just yanking up the beans and cantaloupe plants and tossing them on the compost pile but if I cannot understand what the pole beans are saying to me, I can certainly understand what my wife is saying (she has a somewhat irritating habit of being too right too often.) She says let everything be until we get a return to cooler weather after this prolonged heat wave. Maybe Mother Nature will make a last ditch effort to produce fruit when cooler days and longer nights return. Straight-faced farmers tell me “you planted under the wrong sign of the moon,” but I think they may just be secretly poking fun at a greenhorn.

Mother of Compost

I lied. I stated in an earlier blog that after I dug my early potatoes in June I was going to replant that spud area in bush beans and get a second crop. We had some bush green beans in the freezer and the pole beans were covered with promising blossoms and I had run out of bush bean seed and would have to go into town to buy more etc., etc. so I changed my mind (that sounds much better than plain old “I lied”).

I had not gotten any free composted horse manure this year. As I looked at the empty ground where my potato patch had previously been, I decided that there was a silver lining in this grey cloud of no manure; there was an opportunity to be more self-sufficient and independent of outside help here. My garden now was considerably more fertile than the pure sand I had begun with in the first year of my retirement but still nowhere near what I wanted and needed. What I wanted was enough organic material mixed into the soil to give me a rich foot deep top soil. Yes… this empty potato patch would be where this year I would build the mother of all compost piles. From what grew mostly on my own property I would get the fertility up to a level where it would only need small increments of green manure and cover crops to maintain it in future years.

Compost requires both brown material (high in carbon) and green matter (higher in nitrogen.) For the brown material I had the weathered leaves that fell from my maples last fall. I also had about eight bales of straw that I had set melons on to sell by the roadside last summer and then used as winter insulation behind my north side crawlspace entry and snuggled around some outdoor water spigots to prevent freezing. This combination of brown material I laid about one foot deep over the bare potato patch. As for the green material, a garden, especially a melon field always has culls and bad plants which are a simple wrist pitch away from the compost pile. Cooking from garden produce leaves a lot of rinds, peels and cores; this is always a good addition to the pile. We only eat a small part of a corn plant, so once we had eaten or frozen the sweet corn, the husks, cobs and chopped stalks were all added to the pile. To chop the stalks I laid them all in the same direction on top of the compost pile and then went at them with a sharp hoe. The key word here is “sharp”.

I always let my lawn get a little tall before I take the riding mower to it, partly to save on high- priced gas, mostly because extra work is against my retirement religion, but also so I can get some nitrogen-rich grass clippings to rake up for my vegetable garden. Grass clippings work great as green material to heat up the pile and towards the end of the summer that is where they go. Earlier in the summer I prefer to use them as mulch around heavy feeding and perennial plants which need a mid-summer feeding side-dressing to keep producing, notably rhubarb and asparagus. Grass clippings are my manure substitute and a mulch to keep weeds down. After that purpose is served it can go in the compost pile.

My main source of green material by far was weeds, especially the ragweed (which grows rampant on our property), poke and what I perceived to be thistle plants (although my plant knowledge is so botanically challenged that in truth I cannot tell my thistle from my thassole.) Using young weeds to enrich my vegetable garden felt like a firefighter using back fires to fight fire. All the organic reading material indicates that succulent young weeds are good in the compost. Ragweed is the bane of every nasal allergy sufferer so it felt like I was killing two birds with one stone as I scythed them from our semi-wooded area and hedgerows. Scything was good aerobic exercise and I worked up a good lather when I wasn’t resting in the shade. When I say I composted weeds, I don’t mean any grasses. No crab grass or Johnson grass went into the pile. Those grasses re-root right away whereas the broad leaf weeds are fine as long as they are cut before they have set any seed.

I guess a picture is worth a thousand words so the photo shows the base of my mother of all compost piles where my early potatoes once grew. I will add material to that base the rest of the summer, till it into the soil late in the fall and then sow a green manure crop of ryegrass. Maybe I won’t sneeze quite as much either.

Potatoes, Sweet Potatoes, Tomatoes

As I indicated in an earlier blog I devoted about one third of my 25’X50’ garden to a combination of corn, bush beans and cantaloupe. About another third of the garden is in potatoes, sweet potatoes, and tomatoes. The white potatoes and tomatoes are of the same botanical family and the white potatoes and sweet potatoes have similar fertilization and avoidance of lime needs. Having both the potato and corn areas and the remaining third of everything else the same size makes annual crop rotation on a three year rotation basis somewhat easier. So in this “spud” third of the garden I’ve grown six short north-south rows of Lasoda potatoes, a row of bush beans, three rows of sweet potatoes, and four caged tomato plants with eight small peppers in front of the tomatoes.

The whole area appears to be one mass of greenery without visible aisles; I have an obsession with getting as much produce into as small an area as possible. Actually the harvesting aisles appear and disappear throughout the season. The outside perimeter of the garden serves as four picking aisles for produce which may need daily harvesting. The tomatoes and bell peppers are along the front side so that I can gather them as they ripen from outside the garden. Next year at the back side of the garden perimeter (on the north where they will not shade any other plants) I plan to plant pole beans on perfectly vertical, cut sapling poles and then harvest daily from outside the back of the garden. When the sweet potato slips are first planted before their vines begin to spread there are natural walking aisles between the hilled rows. When the vines begin to spread after about a month the aisles are closed into one mass of vined-bed vegetation. As the white potato vines begin to wither I harvest a north-south row of new potatoes into the east-west bush bean row in the center of the garden and then dig potatoes parallel to the bush beans. As I daily harvest new potatoes I am also opening up a picking row beside the beans. After a couple weeks of picking bush beans I can pull the plants and lay them down as a mulched central garden path for the sweet potato vines to gradually spread into. Meanwhile I will replant the dug potato aisles which I used to get into the beans to a second crop of bush beans and let that aisle close up again. If I use organic mulches of newspaper topped with leaves or straw and then have this close planting of vegetables as a canopy of living mulch to shade out any undesirables I have minimal weed problems, more retention of soil moisture, more total produce etc. So mostly my rows appear and disappear as needed.

One area where I have had a weed and grass problem is in the foot tall chicken wire perimeter fence I use to keep out rabbits. Left uncontrolled these fence row grasses and weeds would set seed which would blow into the garden. We replaced our living room carpet last year so I took the three foot wide strips of old carpet and laid them up against the fence. This killed out everything in short order and then could be dragged to another problem area. The carpet strips were too heavy to be blown away in the storms and smothered everything underneath them.

I have become somewhat disenchanted with black plastic as a mulch since it seems to require drip irrigation beneath and does not allow all the natural rain water to soak down into the plant roots. I like the natural way so this year I dug four bushel basket sized holes and filled them with the best compost and top soil I had. I bought Early Girl® variety tomatoes because I wanted to harvest at the beginning of July not wait until August. I pulled all but the top couple leaves off the plants and planted the roots and stem (which should produce roots once buried) in a shallow trench. Planting more horizontal and closer to the surface hopefully would keep the roots in the warmer topsoil and let them get an earlier start. I put down thick straw mulch from the bales that had protected my house’s north crawlspace during the winter. All the rain we have had has soaked through the straw mulch and into the compost giving me the best looking batch of caged tomatoes I’ve had in my four years of retirement. Today is July 4th and the first tomatoes are turning red. I think black plastic commercial mulch with drip irrigation is good for cantaloupes grown in full sun but I probably will not use it again for tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers or sweet potatoes.

The thing I appreciate most about this potato/tomato section of my garden is quantity. There is just a huge amount of produce beneath those potato and sweet potato vines and tomatoes are always over-producers. They also provide sequential produce; potatoes and tomatoes for the summer and fall, sweet potatoes stored for winter and spring. Both types of potatoes store well. My wife let me know I wasn’t bringing any potatoes into the house for storage until the vines were completely dried up and dead. Until that time the vine is still feeding the growing tubers and they keep just fine in the soil so I only dig them as needed every day or two. With eating from a garden there is not that much variety in produce; you are probably only eating from a dozen or so vegetables. For this reason cooking recipes and varied food preparation is essential to achieving variety. Cooking is my wife’s forte and (I like to think) her hobby. She makes a hash of fried potatoes, green beans, and chopped ham which is great topped with ketchup and served with a side of cucumber and onion slices marinated in sweet vinegar brine. She makes microwaved large new potatoes split open and filled with a mixture of cooked New Zealand spinach, cottage cheese and grated cheddar cheese. (Be sure to poke holes in a spud with a fork before you microwave it.) She makes both great German and terrific American potato salads. She makes delicious oven-baked French fries covered with chipotle seasoning and cayenne pepper. I do believe she could serve potatoes fixed differently every day of the week. In order to eat heavily from a home garden, cooking and a variety of tastes are important.

Still even a plain old meal of fried chicken, corn on the cob, mashed potatoes with black- peppered milk gravy, sliced tomatoes, and green beans cooked with bacon is not all that hard to get down. There were some good meat sales in the stores for the Fourth of July week-end. Because we have been eating vegetables from the garden a lot we could afford to stock our freezer with inexpensive pork loin and chicken. I do love the taste of pulled pork barbecue!

Sweet Corn, Green Beans, Cantaloupes (Squash)

We ate our first sweet corn toward the end of June. I wasn’t sure it was ripe but a coon got in the patch and confirmed to me that it was ready. As I got ready to plant early this spring I had doubts about growing my corn organically again this year. Everyone knows what a heavy nitrogen feeder corn is and I probably only had enough homemade compost made for my tomato holes and the new asparagus trench. I also did not get any horse manure this year so I considered adding some commercial fertilizer but eventually decided to just go pure organic another year and see what happened.

I had a good winter cover crop of rye grass and a lot of time on my hands in early spring. I sharpened a long handled shovel blade with a hand file. I skimmed off rows of rye grass sod, laid the sod to one side, and then dug a trench one-shovel deep laying the soil to the other side of the trench. To the bottom of the trench I added about an inch of old shredded leaves, a good sprinkling of wood ashes from my burn pile pit and chomped it all in with the shovel. In my mind this would form the sponge beneath the corn to prevent all the rain from draining straight through my sand soil. Next I skimmed off the ryegrass along with an inch of top soil from about one foot either side of the trench along with the sod I had laid beside the trench and inverted it all into the trench roots up, grass down. I hoed a furrow into the sod-filled trench and planted. Would that be enough fertility to raise sweet corn? I’d have to wait and see.

When the corn was about a foot tall, I hoed out the weeds and grasses and hilled it a bit. In half the rows I planted a row of bush beans about a foot out from the corn rows. The beans did well without extra fertilization and grew to thigh-high forming a good living shade mulch to keep down weeds. The corn ears and tassels were all well above the bush beans. When the beans were ready for their final harvest I just pulled out the entire plants and then picked the beans off while sitting in a lawn chair in the shade. I don’t like to be bent over a lot. The beans and the corn mature at about the same time; the corn is the heavy feeder and the beans the light feeders. We blanch excess beans and freeze them for later summer eating. Beans can tolerate some shade and the double leaf canopy of beans and corn keep weeds and grasses to a minimum; except for the initial hoeing before I planted the beans no more hoeing was required.

If we harvest corn ears down both sides of the bush bean rows and beans are planted between every alternate row then half the corn rows are available for planting either cantaloupe or butternut squash. The cantaloupe or squash or pumpkins grow undisturbed until the corn and beans are harvested and then spread to take over the entire field. I know butternut squash works well this way and I am trying the cantaloupe this year. So far the cantaloupe vines seem to be enjoying a little shade from the corn and not wilting like they do fully exposed to summer mid-day sun. The fruit may be slower developing and ripening. By the time I planted the cantaloupe seeds between every other corn row I had no compost for them and the rye grass cover crop had been scraped and given to feed the corn. The soil between the corn rows which I was planting to cantaloupe was relatively sterile and I would much prefer to put some manure under each plant but I just did not have it. Cantaloupe and squash benefit from some calcium/lime (as do corn and beans) and also have a strong Potassium need. Wood ash is strong in both of these so I went back to my burn pile where I had been burning branches and brush I had cleared during the winter and spread this ash between the rows. At present the cantaloupe appear to be doing well with only this fertilization.

This combination of bush green beans, sweet corn and squash or cantaloupe takes up about one third of my total garden space at present and I may eventually increase that up to half the garden. This combination seems to be able to be grown totally organically using the method I described and have either similar or complimentary fertilization and sunlight needs. After the cantaloupe (or squash) I can possibly get in a late crop of turnips after everything is harvested by early September. Right now it all looks like one big solid island of green growth with no visible aisles. An isle with no aisles.

Why So Small

It was the end of February. “Got any garden in?” a buddy asked me.

“I got a few early salad greens and a few peas.” I answered and then hesitated and added almost apologetically, “You know Joe…I only put out a small garden; about 25’ by 50’.”

He looked at me silently as if to say, “Frank, why so small? You do live in the country.”

“I do put out about an acre and a half of melons” I added to counter his silent question.

Joe comes from a farming community. He probably used a utility tractor to put in his garden. To put in a small garden in the country probably seemed kind of pointless to Joe. Still the unspoken question “why so small?” bothered me.

First I have neither the desire nor income to buy a tractor and implements to garden; that would be counter to my economic incentive to save money by gardening. I like to keep life simple and power equipment is all about complexity to me. I love hand tools…their quietness, low price and guaranteed startability. I’ve never taken a spade to a mechanic and told him I couldn’t get it to run. I get my exercise quota using hand tools. Some times I have to start up the old tiller to work the melon field, but I don’t like it…can’t hear the birds.

Working a small plot also allows me to concentrate a lot of organic material in a small area to raise soil fertility. Concentration is important. I don’t put the whole garden in in one day but add small sectors all through the spring and summer. I savor my time outdoors.

I’ve always admired those who produced a lot with a little, like those citizens who grew the Victory Gardens of WWII.

I think I have in the back of my mind that one of these days, maybe within the next ten years, I’ll have to leave the country to go to the suburbs to be near doctors and health facilities. I want something that will be doable (by anyone) in a city back yard lot…something I can take with me. Maybe the suburb plots will someday become the new garden lands for local markets instead of shipping produce from an average of 1,500 miles away.

So I guess I am just a small guy who likes to think small and simple. To do otherwise seems too much like work.

Slaw Praise

I harp a lot about the money saving aspects of gardening…I think a lot of that is because gardening is my chosen retirement hobby. The truth is there are a lot of really inexpensive and nutritional foods that can be bought in the grocery…perhaps so inexpensive that it is very questionable whether it would be worth anyone’s effort to garden grow them. Dried beans, dried peas, brown rice, oats, cabbage, onions and carrots are all super healthy foods that are dirt cheap. The pre-pre-prepared “convenience” foods are what make grocery bills high. Probably as much money can be saved by eating inexpensive staples and doing your own food preparation as by gardening.

I wrote an earlier blog about bean soups and incorporated a picture of a bowl of ham and beans and some dark bread. Later it dawned on me that I should also have showed a side-dish of cole slaw in the photo; cole slaw is the perfect taste complement to ham and beans. It also goes wonderfully with fish and fries as well. It is great with chicken, mashed potatoes and white pepper gravy. The same goes for beef, mashed potatoes and dark gravy. One of my favorite grade school cafeteria meals was chicken pot pie and sweet vinegar cole slaw. My parents and grandparents were the meat-and-potato generations; they were also the cooked cabbage and cole slaw eaters. Our generation is the lettuce/spinach salads generation but I doubt that these salads are really healthier than the cancer- fighting cruciferous family. Cabbage stores really well too, whereas the more expensive salad greens will go bad in the fridge crisper in short order.

Cole slaw can be made from cabbage, carrots, an onion, and sweet vinegar; all super nutritious, tasty, and cheap. Problem is these vegetables must be peeled and grated. It’s that food preparation thing I was speaking of earlier. My wife doesn’t care for this grating task so it sounds like a job for “retired man.” (For some reason beyond my comprehension she is forever using that phrase, “sounds like a job for RETIRED MAN.”) Once I am finished grating she adds her secret ingredients and we have a plastic container of slaw in the fridge to go with several meals.

Cooking from scratch and food preparation can be a savvy budgeting concept. Find some good slaw recipes. Here is one I just swiped from my wife’s kitchen counter:
Ingredients:
1 cup fat-free Miracle Whip
¼ cup sugar
8 cups cabbage, finely minced
2 tbsp minced carrots
2 tbsp minced onion
2 tbsp vinegar
Combine the Miracle Whip with sugar and vinegar in a large bowl. Mix well until the sugar is dissolved. Add the cabbage, carrot , and onion, and toss well. Cover and chill several hours. Only 57 calories per ¾ cup serving.